Windermere Estate, Munnar

   In the clear air at 1600m, surrounded by vivid green rolling tea-clad hills and dramatic rainforest, lies Windermere Estate, a newish retreat with a homely, old-fashioned feel. Think carved wooden gables and red corrugated tin roofs, checked tablecloths and lace curtains. Planter and ophthalmic surgeon Simon bought the estate 18 years ago and opened the farmhouse guest quarters in 1999, consciously avoiding anything that felt like a hotel – thus, no reception, and home-cooked meals served in a dining room with kitchen at the far end, in farmhouse-cum-chalet style.

This is a low-key, tranquil place, set in pretty gardens adjacent to Dr Simon’s picturesque planter’s bungalow, where you can unwind and fill your lungs with pure mountain air – not least from the boulder that dominates the property, with its stunning 360 degree views.

ROOMS

The split-level ‘farmhouse’ was purpose-built in 1999 of local stone and wood, with five rooms around a garden and a communal verandah. There’s a nice homy atmosphere, although the rooms are rather plain and not that spacious. The two cottages, on the other hand, are enormous and sparely furnished, leaving plenty of room to swing a few cats. Cottage bathrooms are similarly outsize, and the picture windows bring the mountains to you.

Despite disliking hotel touches, Dr Simon has installed telephones and televisions in all rooms. Towels are changed daily, and sheets every other day.

EATING

 One professional and two domestic cooks create delicious home-style meals, often using Dr Simon’s family recipes. There are more meat dishes than you’ll usually find in Kerala, including bacon and mini sausages for breakfast, and locally raised beef, pork and mutton. Plantains, spinach, spices and honey come from the estate. Breakfasts start with a papaya or mussambi (tangy yellow orange) juice, followed by cereals and a feast of Western and South Indian specialities, setting you up for a day of walking or relaxing (lunch is available on request).

Dinners are table d’hote, with a variety of tasty meat and vegetable curries and continental dishes. Specialities include fish mollie, a traditional Syrian Christian delicacy of fish cooked in fresh coconut milk, served with puris, and a knock-out pork vindaloo that is special to the west coast of India, served with stringhoppers.

EXPLORING

 Windermere organises daily guided walks through the soaring virgin forests of the 60-acre estate, to see the cardamom cultivation and processing. The guide can also take you on an early morning trek, winding up through the hardy tea plants to the top of Chokkan Mudi at 2,500m, overlooking Windermere (two hours), or to Attukkad waterfall (40 minutes). Since you’re in the midst of Tata tea country, this is the place to visit a tea museum, where the history, processing and art of making a cup of tea are all revealed.

Other excursions include Mattuppetty Dam (13km) to go boating, Eravikulum national park, where you can touch and see the endangered Nilgiri thar (mountain goat), and visits to the Indo-Swiss Cattle Project, vegetable dye processing, and a plant nursery.

HIGHS

• Fabulous flora and fauna for nature-lovers, and glorious, uplifting walking country

• A fix if you miss the green, green grass of home – these must qualify for the greenest views in India

• With the planter living next-door, you’re assured high-range hospitality, security and advice

• Those yearning for a good British breakfast can feast on eggs, crispy bacon and sausages

• Cottages are huge, with outsize bathrooms and picture-window views

LOWS

• Farmhouse rooms a little cramped

• Clouds often descend by afternoon, so walkers and viewers should rise early. Rain may also descend out of monsoon season

• Those wanting an exotic, classically ‘Indian’ experience may be disappointed, as it feels more like Scotland (which is why the Brits of the Raj flocked here)

• Power supply can be erratic